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Almonds from Noto. The best peaches are found on street corners in Triscina. When a mafia boss was found in hiding in Sicily, all he had in his fridge was bitter chicory and ricotta.


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He was probably worth a couple of billion! But in Sicily, you don't need a huge variety of ingredients. The olive oil is exceptionally good. Groves near the sea have a salinity that you can't get anywhere else in Italy.


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I bought some groves and I make my own unfiltered, velvety oil on an estate in Agrigento province. The street food in Palermo is incredible, such as stigghiola stuffed, grilled lamb intestines and pane con la milza spleen sandwiches.

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In Bagheria you can get the best sfincione Sicilian pizza. The dough is sweet and soft with the fluffiness of a cloud, almost like a doughnut, and it is topped with onion and anchovies but no tomatoes. Bagheria also has a fantastic museum dedicated to the painter Renato Guttuso, museoguttuso.

The beach at San Vito lo Capo is like the Caribbean — white sand, beautiful sea — and is part of the Zingaro nature reserve. It is also an outstanding spot for kitesurfing. My favourite place to eat is Da Vittoria ristorantevittorio. A restaurant with rooms, it serves traditional Sicilian fish dishes right on the beach.

Giorgio Locatelli's Sicily

There is no menu: you get antipasti and pasta and grilled fish. It's very friendly and relaxed: if you want another bottle of wine, you help yourself from the fridge. Palermitanos go there, and it's just off one of the major wine routes, so there are usually a few wine tourists too — Sicily makes fantastic wine. Noto is a beautiful town — it was destroyed by an earthquake in and rebuilt 8km away, so it's like a stage set. The baroque centre, with a duomo and dozens of churches, is a Unesco world heritage site.

You don't need to book hotels in advance in south-western Sicily. Outside Palermo, off the beaten track, there aren't many tourists around. The locals are very helpful and will help you find a bed for the night. Sicilians are happy to see foreigners, especially the English — if a Sicilian gets rich, they start to dress like an English gentleman!


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